Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 70

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 70

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 89

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 89

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 90

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 90

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 91

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 91

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 95

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 95

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 96

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_main.php on line 96

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 184

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 184

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 189

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 189

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions_bposts.php on line 260

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions_bposts.php on line 260

Warning: require_once() [function.require-once]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_class_commentlist.php on line 126

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_class_commentlist.php on line 126

Warning: require() [function.require]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_blog_main.php on line 163

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_blog_main.php on line 163

Warning: ereg() [function.ereg]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_blog_main.php on line 112

Deprecated: Function ereg() is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_blog_main.php on line 112

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_class_itemlist.php on line 474

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_class_itemlist.php on line 474

Warning: ereg() [function.ereg]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_blog_main.php on line 249

Deprecated: Function ereg() is deprecated in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_blog_main.php on line 249
ladrilio<br /> <b>Warning</b>: date() [<a href='function.date'>function.date</a>]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in <b>/home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions_cats.php</b> on line <b>368</b><br /> <br /> <b>Warning</b>: date() [<a href='function.date'>function.date</a>]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in <b>/home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions_cats.php</b> on line <b>368</b><br /> - Carteles polacos

ladriliazo: Carteles polacos


Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

07.01.07

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Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392
18:47:36, Categorías: arte, perestroiko,

Carteles polacos

Via Ausente, he descubierto los carteles con que se anuncian (¿anunciaban?) las películas en Polonia. Igual he descubierto algo que ya es conocido de todas; me parecen fascinantes tanto como experimento de relativización cultural -¿os imagináis esos carteles aquí?- como en sí mismos.

Y como prueba de lo que digo, aquí va el de la película "Siete días de Enero", de Juan Antonio Bardem.

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Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 343

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 359

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 360

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/ladrilio/public_html/ladrilio/b2evocore/_functions.php on line 392

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Comentario de: Juan B. Viñals Cebriá [Visitante] · http://La Paella de la Parreta - Paella valenciana
Con mucho agrado, hago envío de estos fragmentos de mi libro de investigación gastronómica titulado. LA PAELLA DE LA PARRETA ® Reservados todos los derechos. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial, por cualquier medio, sin autorización escrita del autor Juan B. Viñals Cebriá. Inscrito en el Registro de la Propiedad Intelectual, V.- 20-04-2007. Por tratarse de un plato germinado en la señorial cocina de la alquería de la Parreta, en donde antaño existía una rigurosa “recepta” (receta) oral, la cual, personalmente me la explicó mi tia Maria, la hermana de mi madre, que en la década de los años sesenta se encargaba de tan notorios fogones. Por aquellos mismos tiempos ella misma me reveló las materias primas y el adecuado procedimiento que correspondía emplear para la elaboración de la reina y señora de la gastronomía de lo que ahora se conoce como la Comunidad Valenciana. Y fruto de aquella confidencia actualmente nos encontremos nada más, ni nada menos, que ante la génesis de la genuina “recepta”, y por lo tanto la podemos ofrecer escrita donde se exponen los tres elementos didácticos e invariables que son exclusivos para las paellas condimentadas con el Fundamento de la Parreta, o Paella Valenciana. Por lo tanto nuestra fuente documental es trascendente y directa desde el mismo origen, mi abuelo paterno D. Vicente Cebriá Ballester era pariente próximo de los dueños de aquella alqueria del camino de Burjasot tan loada por Vicente Blasco Ibáñez, el novelista valenciano más universal. -“(…) cerca de las doce llegaron a la alquería del camino de Burjasot, donde la paella burbujeaba ya sobre los sarmientos, faltando sólo que le echasen el arroz”. La tan acreditada alqueria del camino de Burjasot, mantuvo desde siempre el prestigiado nombre de “La Parreta”. La hermana de mi madre, en la decada de los años sesenta, fue quien se hizo cargo de sus fogones, manteniendo impoluta la tradición de cocinar la típica paella valenciana, con la autentica receta de “La Parreta”, que anteriormente le habia facilitado de propia voz la tia Lola, otra familiar nuestra y descendiente directa de los fundadores de tan dignificada alqueria. Hechas estas importantes revelaciones preliminares es necesario situar la cuestión en el estudio de la cocina y sus recetas, porque a nadie se le escapa que la comunicación en la cocina es algo relativamente moderno. Tenemos que indicar que la modalidad de los libros de fórmulas es cosa bastante reciente. Hemos de considerar el boca a boca, como normal en la transmisión del recetario español por cuanto que la comunicación escrita en la cocina valenciana es reciente, si exceptuamos el libro anónimo, Sent Sovi, 1324. Los antiguos cocineros eran reacios a escribir sus formulas. Los libros de recetas son cosa importante en estos momentos, para confirmarlo nos remitimos a lo escrito por el galardonado editor José Mª Pisa. -2001 Derecoquinaria. “Muy al contrario de lo que ocurre en nuestros días, en los que autores de muy diferente profesión y dedicación, son capaces de publicar un recetario de tal lugar o sobre tal producto, hasta hace muy pocos siglos los cocineros eran muy remisos en redactar sus recetarios. En pleno siglo XIV son contados los recetarios que se conoce. Y, tras la gran transformación social que supone el Renacimiento, tampoco es mucho más abundante la presencia de recetarios. Ni siquiera con la aparición de la imprenta. Otra cosa es que la imprenta consigue una difusión y una permanencia del saber culinario que potencia enormemente la comunicación de los "secretos" de la cocina. En España algunos recetarios como el de Nola (s. XV), o el de Altamiras (s. XVIII), son verdaderos éxitos editoriales, como se diría hoy”. *** Antaño la paella sense mànec, era considerada como menjar de senyorets (comida de señores, o comida para la aristocracia). Por lo tanto su elaboración la debemos de rodear de la liturgia, y boato cual corresponde a su linaje; se recomiendan tres componentes inalterables y exclusivos para que desde un principio acompañe el ritual cual merece la paella germinada con el Fundamento de la Parreta, o Paella Valenciana. 1.- EL ARROZ. Son preferibles los arroces de Denominación de Origen Valencia, variedades Senia, Bahia, o Bomba (grano medio o corto). No utilicen arroces de grano largo, porque absorben menos caldo y no resultan tan gustosos. ¿Qué recóndito misterio oculta el arroz que, siendo insustancial, cocido en solitario es, sin embargo, idóneo para glorificar, las más diversas combinaciones? Pues bien, no hay ocultación ninguna en estos granos, sino es el de consumar con sumisa pero trascendentalísima función: ATESORAR EL SABOR de todas las materias primas que le cortejan en el recipiente. El arroz liga y conecta en su insustituible función de fundir sabores, aromas y texturas para ofrecernos un interminable repertorio culinario, del que destaca indiscutiblemente la Paella de la Parreta o Paella Valenciana. 2.- EL FUEGO. Debe de cubrir toda la base posterior de la paella. Se precisa un utensilio especial formado por varios aros concéntricos perforados para permitir la salida del gas y formar llamas pequeñas que calienten por igual la paella en toda su superficie posterior. El fuego es imprescindible tenerlo controlado y a nuestras ordenes en todo momento. Para demostrar la importancia que tiene este menester, se incluye esto que dice, Harold McGee, el celebrado y reputadísimo autor de entre otros títulos.-“La Cocina y los alimentos”.- “La temperatura es el ingrediente más importante de la cocina”. 3.- EL RECIPIENTE. Que siempre se debe de emplear para condimentar tan excelso condimento es la paella. En la Comunidad Valenciana, se le llama "paella sense mànec” (paella sin mango), o sencillamente paella; recipiente de hierro de escasa altura de forma cóncava que desde el siglo XVII se utiliza para cocinar el plato más exquisito de la cocina mediterránea. *** La presente prédica se compromete por lo tanto a perseverar en la elaboración de la paella con los textos del Fundamento e intentar erradicar la comida poco saludable del hábito alimenticio y condimentar los alimentos basados con la sana dieta valenciana o mediterránea. El conocimiento de la Dieta Mediterránea se inició a raíz de unos estudios llevados a cabo en EE.UU. por el Dr. Ancel Keys a principios de los años sesenta, según los cuales este ilustre médico descubrió que los casos de enfermedades cardiovasculares eran mucho mas frecuentes en las zonas de influencia anglosajona y germánica, que en la mediterránea. Por lo tanto se depurará toda existencia de grasa, en las carnes de pollo y conejo, que se incluirán en nuestra paella. PAELLA DE LA PARRETA O PAELLA VALENCIANA EXTRICTOS INGREDIENTES (Para 4 personas): 300 gr. Arros Bomba, Senia, o Bahia. 600 gr. de Pollo 500 gr. de Conejo 250 gr. de Bajoca (judía verde ancha) 200 gr. de Garrofó (judía blanca ancha) 100 gr. de Tavella (judía blanca) 100 gr. de Tomate natural 100CC.de Aceite de oliva virgen Azafrán hebras Sal Pimentón colorado dulce Agua. Infusión de Romero. (No coloquen tal cual la rama de romero en la paella, hace vulgar y, sus briznas desagradan al buen gourmet). *** En el Fundamento de la paella de la Parreta, o paella valenciana no se acepta en su condimentación la palabra truco por su posible concomitancia con engaño, pues todas las materias primas de que se compone este plato deben de ser frescas y naturales, pura ambrosía. Por la nobleza de este delicioso y equilibrado alimento, su perfecta elaboración solo admite los adjetivos de arte o maestría. Cuando se pide que se nombre al plato más internacional de la gastronomía española, la mayoría con distancia le otorga el primer puesto, tanto por notoriedad y como por sabor, a la deliciosa paella de la Parreta o Valenciana. De hecho, cabe recordar que en 1992 y bajo el marco de la Capitalidad Europea de la Cultura, tuvo lugar en Madrid el Congreso Mundial de Gastronomía en el que se buscó un menú que definiera los sabores patrios; las estrellas fueron el gazpacho, y la paella valenciana. Siguiendo escrupulosamente nuestro fundamento o receta podrán optar por alguna de las afamadas estrellas Michelín, o los soles de CAMPSA. RECOMENDACIONES El arroz, una vez repartido por la paella, debe removerse lo menos posible. De lo contrario, irá soltando su almidón y al final, el grano no quedará suelto. Si el arroz parece ya cocido pero todavía queda mucho caldo, remontar el fuego al máximo para que el caldo se evaporice lo antes posible. Por el contrario si el arroz sigue duro y queda poco caldo, descender el fuego para que se consuma a fuego lento y cuando el caldo se haya evaporado, si el arroz continua duro, quitar del fuego la paella y taparla con material no transpirable o un paño humedecido y dejarlo así reposar unos minutos. Agua para el caldo. Científicamente en todas nuestras prácticas ha queda demostrado que toda agua potable es buena para condimentar la paella. Además debido a la forma cóncava que tiene el recipiente, le permite esta circunstancia la correcta evaporación del caldo. El respetado y admirado Antonio Vergara, en "lo mejor de la gastronomia.com". Confirma nuestra elaborada tesis sobre la calidad del agua, cuando, burla, burlando, hace esta exposición tan breve, pero tan significativa.- "Un mito ancestral y folklórico –el agua, dura o blanda, interviene decisivamente en la bondad final de un arroz o de la paella, y tiene que ser valenciana- es desmitificado por los ensayos de laboratorio y catas llevados a cabo en El Poblet por Dacosta y Santos Ruiz, gerente de la D.O. Arròs de València e ingeniero agrónomo". *** La Paella de la Parreta o paella valenciana no es un amasijo de demenciales ingredientes propios de cocineros inexpertos. Se piensa equivocadamente que la paella tiene como ingrediente principal el arroz y que, a partir de ahí, vale cuanto más mejor. Nada más lejos de la realidad. Es cierto que sin el arroz, hablar de paella resulta cuanto menos que aberrante, pero lo inadmisible a la hora de condimentarla no es sinónimo de que todo vale. La razón es sencilla en gastronomía. La mezcla de heterogéneas carnes, aves, pescados o verduras puede darle a nuestro estómago una sensación poco grata. Al respecto, es necesario recordar las contundentes palabras de los reconocidos y admirados autores de “100 paellas y una fideuá, Ignacio Méndez-Trelles y Ernesto Cantón, los cuales, califican la paella mixta, donde el pollo convive con las gambas, “de auténtica herejía culinaria”. El éxito universal de nuestro vocablo Paella no ha podido ser mayor en cualquier idioma culinario. Pero eso nos obliga a los amantes de las autenticas y genuinas recetas de cocina exigir en todo momento y lugar, la defensa de ese patrimonio o bien cultural, que representa este manjar originario de la Comunidad Valenciana . El importante editor aragonés José Mª Pisa.- Derecoquinaria 2001, dejó escrita esta trascendente aclaración.-“(…) Pero, hechas esas salvedades, paella sólo es lo que ya definió Felipe-Benicio Navarro. Los otros arroces son otra cosa, y nadie debería sacar partido a costa de algo que pertenece al patrimonio común fruto de la gran cocina valenciana, del mismo modo que chilindrón, olla podrida, alfajores, pulpo a feira, bullabesa, etc. son términos que no admiten prostitución alguna”. *** Las exactas y preciadas materias primas antaño sólo se podían encontrar en las alacenas (“rebost”val.) de los ricos señores huertanos. A la hora de comer la paella de la Parreta, o paella valenciana, los sibaritas, o gourmets, aplican unas gotas de espíritu de limón. Con el rigor histórico que merece tan preciado manjar, la paella valenciana nació en principio, para solemnizar los grandes acontecimientos de índole familiar de los señores de la huerta; después de la mano de la burguesía capitalina, se integró en los círculos artísticos y culturales de Alicante, Castellón y Valencia. Nota.- La Parreta fue galardonada con el titulo y la medalla otorgada por el Centenario (1896-1996) de la Cámara de Comercio de Valencia. Recuerdos para la nostalgia. Una de las ancestrales costumbres caídas en desuso, era el rito de comer el arroz de la paella con “cullera de fusta” (cuchara de madera). Ítem.-Ferrán Adriá, el cocinero más reputado y prestigioso del mundo, de él que sólo pronunciar su nombre, se asocia a la gran creación de concepciones culinarias en su célebre restaurante El Bulli (Gerona). En unas muy atinadas palabras suyas dirigidas a glorificar la cocina de la Comunidad Valenciana, dijo esto tan extraordinariamente significativo:“La gastronomía valenciana, es una de las grandes de Europa porque tiene una fantástica cocina tradicional y unos productos fantásticos(…)”. Y Ferrán Adriá, el más admirado entre los más grandes en las artes culinarias , continuó diciendo.- “El producto más global es el arroz, es el que come más gente todos los días en el mundo”. Y Ferrán Adrià finalizó su apasionada loa al arroz y, no era por quedar bien, lo ha dicho en muchos otros sitios y lugares, que el arroz es para él “algo mágico”. Miércoles 18 de abril 2007 .Otros de mis títulos relacionados con la gastronomia. . Fundamento de la Paella Valenciana. . Molt Distingit Cuiner (Muy Distinguido Cocinero). Señores, tienen mi autorización, para que puedan mostrar, comentar, etc, estos fragmentos. Atentamente. Fdo.- Juan B. Viñals Cebriá. AVISO LEGAL: Esta información es privada y confidencial y esta dirigida únicamente a su destinatario. Si usted no es el destinatario original de este mensaje y por este medio pudo acceder a dicha información por favor elimine el mensaje. La distribución o copia de este mensaje esta estrictamente prohibida. Esta comunicación es solo para propósitos de información y no deberian ser considerados como una declaración oficial del autor. La transmision de e-mails no garantiza que el correo electrónico sea seguro o libre de error. Por consiguiente, no manifestamos que esta informacion sea completa o precisa. Toda informacion esta sujeta a alterarse sin previo aviso.
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